The veterinarians and staff at TLC Pet Care Centers want to extend our warmth and appreciation for entrusting us to work with you and your pets.
We are proud to be a part of this progressive and above all, caring and compassionate team of people. Our facility offers elective surgery, wellness and sick visits, laboratory analysis, and advanced surgery while utilizing state of the art equipment. We also have a 7 day a week boarding facility. We look forward to keeping your pet healthy and happy.
From our family to yours,
Your friends at TLC Pet Care Centers
The leaves are changing and the holidays are sneaking up on us. With the first of many family gatherings fast approaching, don't forget your furry family members. Make sure you remember they are there and to keep them for harm while entertaining everyone. Also this is the time of year to remember to keep treating your animals for parasites, fleas, and heartworm because this time of year, before it freezes, the critters are looking to keep warm. Below find some tips and reminders for the upcoming holiday.
Thanksgiving Dog Safety Tips
Think ahead to the day after Thanksgiving. Where would you rather be - lounging on the couch with your dog sleeping on the floor next to you, hitting the after-Thanksgiving sales - or at the vet's office praying that your dog survives or searching the neighborhood because he has escaped? I know where I wouldn't want to be!
You can avoid tragedy by being aware of the hazards and dangers to your dog and practicing a few Thanksgiving dog safety tips.
Dogs like predictable routines, and Thanksgiving is not predictable. There's lots of people coming and going, meals are prepared and eaten at odd hours, there's lots of tempting food sitting around in bowls just waiting to be scarfed down. Dogs can get overly excited or nervous - and some dogs who are on the nervous side may get aggressive because the added stress simply "puts them over the top."
If you know what to look out for ahead of time and how to prepare, then *you* won't have (much!) added stress. So here's some Thanksgiving dog safety tips for you so everyone can enjoy the day.
Thanksgiving Preparation for your Dog
You're going to have a lot going on, especially if you're cooking dinner. But please don't neglect your dog! Keep to his regular schedule as much as possible. If you can't walk or exercise him, look into getting a family member, neighbor, or a dogwalker. Be sure to exercise him before your guests arrive - tire him out, but don't go overboard.
Dogs talk to us all the time and tell us they are stressed, but we often misinterpret what they are saying because we use our frame of reference - which is only human! What we intend and how our dogs interpret what we do many times are two different things. For example, most dogs don't like to be hugged. To them, it's a threat. What do children, especially little girls, absolutely LOVE to do to dogs? - hug them.
Prepare a dog safe-room away from all the commotion with his bed, water, and classical music. Give him a scrumptious treat-filled toy - perhaps stuffed with pumpkin or carrots - such as a frozen Kong or puzzle toy that that he can chew both to relieve his stress and for the fun of chewing. He may need more water than he usually gets because dogs pant more when they are excited or stressed or someone may tip his water bowl. So check it to be sure he has water.
Be sure your dog is wearing ID dog tags just in case he slips out an open door or gate.
If you are going out for Thanksgiving dinner or a parade, please leave your dog at home.
Finally, just for peace of mind, be sure you have your vet's phone number handy and the name and address of the nearest emergency veterinary hospital.
Where should your dog be while you are preparing Thanksgiving dinner?
Keep dogs out of kitchen! If your dog stays out of the kitchen, this prevents:
Burning from hot liquids or food
Injury from something falling on your dog such as knives or pots
Your tripping over him
If you are frying the turkey or grilling any meats, keep your dog away from the fryer or grill where he could easily run into those or jump on them and get severely burned.
Keep all pot and pan handles on the stove turned inward.
Keep food away from doggie thieves by covering it and placing it out of reach of countertop and table edges.
After you've cooked the meal and *before* you sit down to eat, throw out all food and food-related garbage. Put something heavy such as a brick on top of your garbage can outside to ensure the lid will not come off. If you have a lot of other trash, then put it in your closed garage or storage area away from your dog until garbage collection day.
These cooking items can be consumed by your dog and get stuck in the intestinal track causing a blockage or perforation:
Baking string or mesh (that you use on a turkey or a roast)
Napkins
Plastic bags or shrink-wrap covering
Plastic eating utensils
Plastic glasses
Plastic or paper plates
Plastic wrap
Pop up timers
Roasting bags
Skewers
Tin foil
Toothpicks
Wax paper
Where should your dog be while you are eating Thanksgiving dinner?
The best place for your dog is away from the table, preferably in that dog safe-room with a closed door or one that is gated off. If your guests can't see his pleading eyes, then they won't be tempted to give him some of their dinner!
Give your dog something to chew on, such as a frozen treat-filled food dispensing toy like a Kong.
Please instruct your guests that they should not give him a Please, please, please ask your guests NOT to feed your dog except his own food or treats - during the meal or at any other time because deviation from his diet can upset his stomach. In fact, the safest place for him may be in that dog safe-room away from all the commotion of cheering from football games, kids running around, lots and lots of conversations (you know which family members are louder than others!)
Even though you may think your dog is a member of the family who should be included in the celebrations, your dog may become stressed because this gathering is such a departure from his routine.
Where should your dog be when you are cleaning up after Thanksgiving dinner?
Keeping your dog away from leftovers - both food and anything used to prepare the meal - is essential.
PLEASE don't give cooked bones to your dog. Cooked bones spell disaster for your dogs because they easily splinter and could puncture your dog's his throat or intestines.
Put any leftovers in tightly closed containers and refrigerate them immediately to keep canine thieves away.
Regarding the turkey carcass, put it in a plastic bag, tie it up, and throw it in the outside garbage can immediately after eating.
Thanksgiving Foods that are Hazardous to your Dog
One especially dangerous Thanksgiving food is turkey skin. If you think your dog has eaten any or has any of these symptoms, then he may have pancreatitis, so take him to your vet asap. Symptoms of pancreatitis are:
Abdominal pain
Dehydration
Diarrhea (which may contain blood)
Fever
Increased water consumption with or without vomiting afterwards
Lethargy
Loss of appetite
Vomiting
Here are some other Thanksgiving foods that are hazardous and can injure or poison your dog:
Alcohol - wine, beer, mixed drinks, eggnog
Bread dough expands in your dog's stomach and causes pain and bloat, which is 100% fatal unless treated IMMEDIATELY. (See my article on Bloat in Dogs.)
Buttery side dishes
Cake batter, especially if it includes raw eggs
Candy or chocolate can cause seizures and is especially lethal to small dogs. Your dog can steal some from a candy dish or your guests may inadvertently drop a piece. You know that your dog is a vacuum cleaner!
Coffee or tea
Cooked bones can choke, break, splinter, tear, or get stuck in your dog's throat, stomach, or intestines
Grapes and raisins can cause kidney damage or failure
Gravy
Nuts, especially macadamia nuts
Onions and onion powder in stuffing destroy your dog red blood cells
Potholders
Rich, fatty foods
Spicy sauces
Turkey fat (especially the skin)
Xylitol (found in sugarless gum and candy) (Please read my article on Xylitol Poisoning in Dogs - it's deadly.)
Nonfood Thanksgiving Hazards to your Dog
Here are some other things you may not realize that also can harm your dog that are around the house during the holiday season.
Bottle caps
Candles - your dog can come too close and get burned, or he can knock the candles over and cause a fire.
Colored crystals that you burn in the fireplace
Holiday Plants or decorations
Loose cords can choke your dog
Pop tabs
Ribbons
Six-pack beverage holders
Swizzle sticks
Straws
Umbrellas or other accoutrements in mixed drinks
Thanksgiving Visitors and Guests - and your Dog
When greeting guests, your dog should not greet them with you. With everything that is going on, you may forget to watch him, someone may inadvertently forget to close the door, or he can wiggle past your visitors before you realize it. You don't want to spend your Thanksgiving looking for an escaped dog!
If your dog is normally well behaved, you may ask yourself what's gotten into him because he's out of control. A normally calm dog may be nervous, and a normally friendly dog may be shy. Be alert for these stress signals:
Acting afraid or nervous (moving away)
Attention seeking
Cowering
Drooling
Freezing or becoming very still - this is very important because this dog is *almost ready to bite* - especially if he is staring at something.
Whatever he is staring at is his intended target. Interrupt him by standing between him and whatever he is staring at IMMEDIATELY.Don't yell, but quietly distract and remove him.
Growling (Growling is good - your dog is telling you he is uncomfortable. Never punish a growl because you are taking away the warning! Change the situation.)
Hiding
Jumping or barking more than usual
Pacing
Panting
Raising the fur on his back
Shivering or shaking
Showing the white of his eye
Trying to hide under furniture or escape
Turning his head away
Whining
Yawning or licking his chops
If children are among your guests, tell them to let your dog approach them, even if they know him from previous visits. They should stand still like a tree and let your dog sniff him. The children can pet him ONLY if his tail is wagging and he wants the attention. Remember, NO HUGGING THE DOG - dogs don't like to be hugged.
DON'T EVER LEAVE CHILDREN AND DOGS UNSUPERVISED, NOT EVEN FOR A SECOND. Yes, I know you have other things to do. BUT even a dog who normally likes children may be so stressed with all the Thanksgiving commotion that he can't cope and end up biting. If your dog is exhibiting any of the stress signs, separate the children and dogs immediately. It probably would be best at that point to put your dog in his safe-room or crate away from your company or in his crate and to tell the children that they should not bother him for the balance of their visit.
If your guests have medications in their luggage, ask them to close and lock their luggage. With purses, put them in a closet with the door closed so your dog doesn't go exploring.....
This may seem like a lot to do, but you love your dog and want to protect him or you wouldn't be reading this article! While I was researching it, I came across things that I had not even considered could be dangerous - and you may have more. Please let me know if you do so I can add them to help others.
I wish you, your family, your dog, and your guests the very best - and the very safest - Thanksgiving!
I'd love to hear what your comments are. Do you have other tips for keeping your dog safe at Thanksgiving? Please share your experiences or ask a question so we can begin a dialogue to help each other.
MEET OUR DOG,
CAT, AND EXOTIC
OF THE MONTH
Shetland Sheepdogs
rough-coated Collie. When viewed from the side, the head looks like a blunt wedge, with the muzzle tapering slightly from the ears to the nose. There is a slight stop. The teeth meet in a scissors or level bite. The nose is black. The almond-shaped eyes are dark; however, blue eyes can appear in the blue merle coat. The small ears are 3/4 erect with the tips folding forward. The neck is arched and muscular. The long tail is feathered, carried straight down, or at a slight upward curve. The tail should reach to the hock. Dewclaws are sometimes removed. The double coat is long and abundant all over the body, but is shorter on the head and legs, and the coat forms a mane around the neck and chest. The outer coat is straight and harsh to the touch, and the undercoat is soft and tight. Coat colors come in blue merle, sable and black with various amounts of white and/or tan.confident, consistent, pack leaders. Very intelligent, lively and trainable, the Shetland Sheepdog is one of the smartest breeds. With intelligence comes the need to occupy their minds. They like to be kept busy. The Sheltie is above all an intelligent herder, capable both of commanding large cattle and holding small sheep in check. The herding instinct is still very strong in many of them. They love to chase things. Teach this dog not to chase cars. A Sheltie should not be allowed to run free near a road as it may decide to chase a car or something else it sees across the road, running a high risk of getting hit by a car. Because of its beauty and kindness, the Sheltie has become a popular companion dog. Do not allow this dog to believe he needs to run your home, or manybehavior problems will start to develop. They can become suspicious with strangers, especially with children. They may not allow themselves to be touched by strangers and will display noisy persistent barking, as they tell the humans to leave them alone. This can lead to guarding, snapping and even biting. They may hide behind something, barking persistently when company arrives. The dog needs to be told this is not an acceptable behavior. These negative traits are not Sheltie traits, but rather Small Dog Syndrome, human induced behaviors where the dog believes he is pack leader to humans. Varying degrees of negative behaviors result when a dog feels it is the leader of a human pack and must keep ITS humans in line. These negative traits will subside as soon as the humans around the dog start to display the proper leadership, along with daily pack walks to relieve mental and physical energy.
walk or jog. They will also enjoy running free, but be sure the dog is in a safe area.
Rough Collie, both dogs descended from Border Collies that inhabited Scotland. The Border Collies were brought to the Scottish island of Shetland and crossed with the Icelandic Yakkin, a small island dog which is now extinct. By 1700, the Sheltie was completely developed. The dogs were used to herd and guard the sheep flocks of the Shetlands. This willing worker was very gentle when herding the miniature stock. The Shetland Sheepdog was first recognized in England in 1909 and by the AKC in 1911. The Sheltie is one of today's most popular companion dogs. Extremely smart, it excels at obedience competition. Some of the Sheltie's talents include: tracking, herding, watchdog, guarding, agility, competitive obedience and performing tricks.
The Sphynx
History
The hairless Sphynx is an example of the cat breeds that come about accidentally. A genetic mutation brought about the birth of a hairless
kitten to Elizabeth, a black and white domestic cat in Toronto, Canada. Elizabeth's owner recognized that Prune, as the kitten was called, was unique and set about trying to reproduce him. He, along with other hairless kittens that were born in the mid- to late 1970s, was bred to furred cats, including the Devon Rex. The gene for hairlessness is recessive, so while some of the offspring were hairless, others had fur.
Originally known as Canadian Hairless Cats, according to The International Cat Association, breeders eventually settled on the moniker Sphynx for the unusual breed, a reference to the gigantic limestone sculpture in the Egyptian desert, worn smooth over the millennia through erosion by wind, sand and water. The Sphynx is recognized by the American Cat Fanciers Association, the Cat Fanciers Association and The International Cat Association, as well as other cat registries. Perhaps the world's most famous Sphynx is Mr. Bigglesworth, played by Ted NudeGent, in the Austin Powers comedies.
Size
The Sphynx is a medium-size cat. He typically weighs 6 to 12 pounds.
Personality
It's a good thing that the Sphynx loves attention because he draws it wherever he goes. He is demanding of human attention and will do anything for a laugh. "Look at me!" is his catchphrase. That makes him easy to handle by veterinarians or anyone else, and it's not unusual for a Sphynx to be a therapy cat since he is so fond of meeting people.
When he is not receiving the attentions of his adoring fans, the curious and energetic Sphynx is exploring his surroundings, climbing his cat tree or otherwise seeking high places, chasing a bug or just generally getting into mischief. He is extremely fond of teaser toys and puzzle toys that challenge his athleticism and brains.
This is a highly social cat. If you are gone during the day, the Sphynx will enjoy having a friend in the form of another Sphynx, another cat or even a dog. He likes the company and, equally important, he likes having someone to snuggle with so that he stays warm. He loves to be held, and you can expect him to sleep with you, most likely under the covers. Think of it as having a living hot water bottle.
Health
Both pedigreed cats and mixed-breed cats have varying incidences of health problems that may be genetic in nature. Sphynx are generally healthy, although the following diseases have been seen in the breed:
Urticaria pigmentosa, a skin disease that causes crusty sores on the body.
Hypertrophic cardiomyopathy, a form of heart disease that is inherited in some cat breeds such as the Maine Coon. Heritability has not been proven in the Sphynx.
Care
Despite his bald body, a Sphynx requires at least as much grooming as cats with fur and maybe even more. Their skin must be kept moisturized with a gentle, scent-free lotion or oil, and they need weekly baths so as not to leave greasy spots on your furniture and clothing. Use a gentle baby shampoo or moisturizing shampoo and rinse thoroughly, especially between the folds of the wrinkles. If you begin bathing your Sphynx kitten while he is young, he will learn to accept and sometimes even enjoy baths. Baby wipes will help to keep him clean between baths.
Brush the teeth to prevent periodontal disease. Daily dental hygiene is best, but weekly brushing is better than nothing. Wipe the corners of the eyes daily with a soft, damp cloth to remove any discharge. Use a separate area of the cloth for each eye so you don't run the risk of spreading any infection. Check the ears weekly. If they look dirty, wipe them out with a cotton ball or soft damp cloth moistened with a 50-50 mixture of cider vinegar and warm water. Avoid using cotton swabs, which can damage the interior of the ear.
Keep the litter box spotlessly clean. Like all cats, Sphynx are very particular about bathroom hygiene.
Although the Sphynx feels warm to the touch, he doesn't have a fur coat to keep him warm. If you're cold, he probably is too. Buy him a nice sweater or two to help him retain heat.
It's a good idea to keep a Sphynx as an indoor-only cat to protect him from diseases spread by other cats, attacks by dogs or coyotes, and the other dangers that face cats who go outdoors, such as being hit by a car. Sphynx who go outdoors also run the risk of being stolen by someone who would like to have such an unusual cat without paying for it. If your Sphynx has an outdoor enclosure where he can sunbathe, be sure to apply cat-safe sunscreen to his skin to prevent sunburn.
Coat Color And Grooming
Bald, wrinkled and potbellied, the Sphynx is sometimes proclaimed to be ugly, but only by those who have a shallow understanding of beauty. His unusual body shape and the physiological and emotional warmth he emits are what attract people to him.
Much like an apricot, the hard, muscular body of the Sphynx can be smooth or covered with a fine, soft down. The nose, toes, ears and tail may also have a light covering of fur. To hug him is to melt into the warmth of his suedelike coat. A Sphynx does not have a higher body temperature than other cats, but it seems like it because there is no fur to serve as insulation.
A broad chest and a well-rounded abdomen give him the appearance of having eaten just a little too much at dinnertime, but he should not be fat. Supporting the body are firm, muscular legs set on oval paws with long, slender toes. Thick paw pads make the Sphynx look as if he is walking on "air cushions." A long, slender, flexible tail is described as whiplike. A Sphynx with a little tuft of fur on the end of the tail is said to have a lion tail. Sphynx kittens are heavily wrinkled, but as they grow the wrinkles smooth out, although some remain throughout the cat's life. A Sphynx should not be so wrinkled that eyesight or other functions are compromised.
The head of the Sphynx is a modified wedge shape, slightly longer than it is wide, with prominent cheekbones, large ears and large, lemon-shaped eyes. Whiskers and eyebrows are sparse to nonexistent.
The Sphynx comes in all colors and patterns, including white, black, red, chocolate, lavender, various tabby patterns, tortoiseshell, calico, bicolor, and pointed and mink patterns. The color is seen in the pigment of the skin as well as in whatever hair the cat has and can sometimes be difficult to distinguish.
Mini Lops
Introduction
The Mini Lop is perhaps one of the most, if not the most popular rabbit breed in the world. It features in most rabbit shows in most countries and is kept as a pet by many, many people. It's small size and floppy ears certainly make it appealing and many fanciers fall for the charms of this cute bunny.
History
Adrian de Cock, a Dutch breeder, is the man often credited with the foundation of the Holland Lop - the breed that was used to create the Mini. He put the largest Lop breed, the French Lop, with the Netherland Dwarf and this resulted in a diminutive version of the French. Although the union of these two breeds seems unlikely, de Cock persevered and in 1951 a litter of six kits was born and these tiny babies signalled the beginning of a new breed. Following the arrival of these first kits, an English Lop was added to the breeding mix to make the ears more 'loppy'.
The Holland Lop Breed Society was established in 1970 by Adrian de Cock with the aim of getting the Holland Lop down to a tiny 1.5kg. In 1980 these smaller Lops found their way into Britain after Yorkshire breeder George Scott found them via a contact in Holland. After Scott spent time breeding together the smallest examples of the breed, the Mini Lop was born. The Mini was recognised by the British Rabbit Council (BRC) in 1994 and is already one of the most popular pet and show breeds in the UK.
The coat of the Mini Lop should be dense and soft and of a good length. It should also have lots of guard hairs. They have a compact body that is broad and well muscled, with a round head and full cheeks. The chest is deep and broad with curvy sides. The shoulders are also very powerful, as are the hind legs and the tail is strong, straight and well-furred.
The ears should be liberally covered in fur and should be rounded at the ends. They must be held quite close to the cheeks to form a horseshoe shape over the head. The eyes are round and bright.
The Mini is accepted in all colours by the breed standard, apart from broken.
Temperament
This breed is bright, cheerful and playful and because he's intelligent he can be easily trained. He will get along well with other pets and animals - although he will prefer quiet, calm children! As prey animals rabbits can be skittish and very active, particularly the smaller breeds. If you buy your Mini Lop from a reputable breeder your pet will have been well socialised and handled from an early age which will have got him used to human and animal company.
The Mini Lop is a friendly little animal that will delight with his antics, but he will need plenty of exercise and stimulation to prevent boredom setting in. He will love playing with cat toys - particularly those that have bells or rattles.
Health
Rabbits are quite delicate creatures and should be handled with care. Any children in the house should be shown how to pick up their new pet properly as they can sustain injuries very easily. All rabbits should be vaccinated against VHD. These are two very serious diseases that usually prove fatal. Viral Haemorrhagic Disease (VHD) is an extremely infectious airborne disease that can cause collapse, breathing difficulties, jaundice, bloody discharge from the nasal passages, fever, weight loss and groaning. There is no cure for VHD.
Myxomatosis is carried by wild rabbits and is also highly infectious. Symptoms include swellings around the head, eyes and genitals and conjunctivitis which eventually leads to blindness and eventually death. Vaccinated rabbits can contract Myxomatosis but the symptoms will be much less severe than in animals that haven't been vaccinated.
Diet should be the number one consideration for any rabbit owners as not only will high-quality pellets and hay, as well as lots of fibrous green vegetables keep him fit and healthy, they will also help to keep his teeth worn down. A rabbit's teeth grow constantly, and if they're allowed to get too long the animal may have difficulty eating or develop injuries in his mouth that will require veterinary treatment.
His diet should also be monitored carefully so the rabbit is not allowed to become overweight. Obese rabbits are unable to groom themselves and may fall victim to flystrike; where flies lay eggs in soiled areas of fur and the hatching maggots cause injuries to the skin. All rabbits should be treated for worms, ticks, fleas and lice and owners of does should consider getting their girls spayed as it can help prevent uterine cancer, which is common in rabbits.
Care
The Mini Lop will need regular grooming to keep his fur in good condition. Frequent grooming sessions will also allow you to check him over for any signs of illness or injury. He should be fed the best quality pellets, hay and vegetables you can afford.
If your rabbit is going to live outdoors in a hutch it should provide enough space for him to hop around and stand on his hind legs. It should be fully weatherproof with a wire mesh front that's fine enough not to allow little legs through. A cover should be placed over the front of the hutch in very bad weather and it should be placed out of draughts and full sun. If you have a light, well-ventilated shed that will accommodate a hutch, this would be ideal.
The hutch should be cleaned out once a week and droppings should be removed daily. He should be provided with clean, fresh water every day. He should have human company regularly and get the chance to exercise and play with his humans whenever possible. A run or secure area of garden should be provided so he can run and play with impunity.
If he's going to live indoors your rabbit should be litter trained and he should also be provided with a quiet area where he can escape for a snooze if he feels like it. Any important belongings such as shoes, phones, papers, toys and clothes should be kept well out of his way as he will chew them. Cables and wires are a favourite so make sure he doesn't have access to these as not only is chewing them dangerous, it's also irritating when your TV doesn't work because the rabbit's chewed right through the wire!
