In any piece of jewelry, the setting is just as important as the stone itself. The setting refers to how the stone is secured into the piece. Which type you choose for your jewelry casting will impact the function, appearance, and longevity of the piece. Before you design yours or decide how to re-set a stone, here are a few options and what to expect.
A Guide to Jewelry Casting & Stone Setting
The jeweler will prepare the setting or the stone, depending on which you’re starting with. If you’ve chosen a stone, they’ll cut the bed of the setting to fit the stone. If you’re starting with the latter, they’ll cut the stone to fit the setting.
Once they know it’s a perfect fit, they’ll place it in. Depending on the type of setting, they’ll use specialized tools to close the walls or prongs around the stone to secure it. They’ll polish the metal and clean the stone, then inspect it to ensure it’s still firmly in place. Occasionally, polishing may loosen a stone so they will not conduct their quality control inspection until after the cleaning.
The Types of Settings
The prong setting is what you typically see in an engagement ring. Jewelry usually has four or six prongs, which stick up from the piece. The prongs go around the edges of the stone, leaving the sides open. This allows light to come in and show off the sparkle of a faceted stone such as a diamond.
The channel setting wedges multiple stones of the same size in a row between two strips of metal. The pave option is for groups of small stones and employs tiny prongs or beads to hold them in place next to each other in a “field.” The bezel setting secures the stone inside a strip of metal, which wraps around the stone. It’s often used for opaque stones since they don’t need light from below. The flush setting is the most secure and easiest to clean. The gem sits inside the piece of jewelry, so the upper edge is flush with the surrounding metal.
Whether you need to re-set an old piece or design a new one, Frank Billanti Jewelry Casting in New York, NY, will do so with personalized attention. This jewelry manufacturer is known for high-quality craftsmanship, from creating a CAD design to the final polishing. See some of their jewelry casting work online or call (212) 221-0440 for a free quote.