Don't Ignore That Leaky Toilet - Here's How To Do Preventive Maintenance
When Was The Last Time You Replaced That Wax Ring Seal Beneath Your Toilet? Can't Recall When? Might Be About Time To Do This Important Home Maintenance Item!
Is the vinyl or tile flooring around the base of your toilet looking stained or swollen like it could be leaking from underneath the bowl? Is the toilet rocking back and forth on its base? These indicate a need for a new seal between the bowl and the drain. The mounting bolts may also need to be replaced or re-tightened. Is the water supply line dripping and needing to be upgraded to a better quality braided steel hose. These are not expensive maintenance items - as long as you don’t wait too long to do them!!
Do not delay. Small amounts of black water and sewage leaking from under a toilet will over time cause expensive water damage or mold growth to the bathroom subfloor or even adjacent walls! (Accidental contact with fecal matter is of course also a worrisome sanitary issue.)
Are these repairs something homeowners can take on themselves? Sure – if you are not squeamish about getting up close and personal with the dirty side of a toilet. Actually, this is not a horrible or time consuming task if sanitary precautions are taken and you follow some easy steps and get good advice at the hardware store. Otherwise, call in a nearby plumber who can do the job correctly in a quarter of the time.
Following the steps below will guide you through this first time project.
You will need a few common tools and materials:
- Open end adjustible wrenches or water pump pliers
- Toilet Plunger
- Wet/Dry Shop Vac
Before You Shop for Wax Ring Replacement Supplies
- If you lift or remove a toilet for any reason, always replace the wax ring seal between the toilet and the toilet anchor flange (also known as a closet flange) attached to the drain in the floor..
- Wax? Yes indeed. Made of a molded wax circle formed around a stubby plastic tube, wax rings are mostly foolproof, inexpensive and shape themselves to fit almost any toilet and floor drain. These resist water, mold and bacteria and retain their sealing ability during many years of use. They don’t last forever though, that’s why you are doing this important project. If your toilet wobbles even a little bit from side to side or your toilet rocks enough for one side of the base to lift off the floor — even a little— you may have a broken toilet anchor flange. As a precaution, pick up a flange repair kit.
- NOTE: if a vinyl floor has been replaced with something thicker, such as ceramic tile, this will often create a gap between the toilet and the toilet anchor. If you see a gap here, add a flange spacer to fill the gap. (Heavy duty, thicker wax rings are also available to fill the gap.)
- When you drain the toilet tank and unhook the water supply, this is a great time to upgrade the flush valve. Fixing an old leaky valve can save hundreds of gallons of water a day. The savings in water use can pay for this entire project in no time.
- If you’re removing the toilet because of a leak at the base or water damage in the ceiling of the floor below, inspect that damage before you head to the box store. Water can degrade a subfloor enough to affect the strength of the mounting bolts attaching the toilet anchor flange — and the toilet — to the floor. Determine whether you need to cut away the damaged subfloor and replace it. Be sure to sanitize the area thoroughly.
- Check the condition of the mounting bolts that attach the toilet to the floor. If they’re corroded, you’ll need W-2 to help loosen them. Even if they’re not visibly corroded, plan to replace the bolts as a precaution. Some wax rings come in a kit that includes new mounting bolts. Step 1 - Drain and Remove the Toilet
Shut off the water supply to the toilet at the supply-line valve beside the toilet or at the main water source. Then flush and shop vac the water from the tank until it’s dry. Use a plunger to force most of the remaining water in the bowl down the drain and sponge out the rest.
A wet /dry shop vacuum empties toilet tanks and bowls in an instant. Check the manufacturer’s instructions for how to set it up to suction water.
Step 2
Detach the supply-line hose from the toilet tank and catch any water in the tank or line using a bucket or towels. Loosen and remove the nuts holding the toilet to the floor.
If the bolts have corroded, first apply W-2 and allow it to seep over the threads for a few minutes before loosening the bolts. Apply only moderate pressure to loosen the bolts. Anything more may bend or break the toilet anchor flange. Avoid pounding on the porcelain of the toilet base to prevent cracking the porcelain and ruining the toilet. Step 3
If you’re working in an awkward space or the toilet appears too heavy to lift, consider removing the bolts attaching the tank to the bowl and moving the two parts separately. Before lifting the toilet, place four 2 x 4 x 6 blocks on edge on the floor to hold the toilet drain off the floor. Choose a corner of the bathroom away from the drain to give yourself room to work. Angle the blocks slightly so they won’t tilt as you rest the toilet on them. Carefully lift the toilet while keeping the base parallel to the floor. Check the drain to make sure the old wax ring isn’t still attached. Set the toilet on the blocks.
CarefulIt’s darn near impossible to empty all water from the drain trap that loops from the bowl to the floor drain opening. That’s fine as long as the toilet base remains parallel to the floor, but tilting it back and forth will probably spill water from the trap all over your floor. How to install the new wax ring Step 1
Wear a pair of disposable gloves to remove and discard the old wax ring. (It’s extremely sticky and, let’s face it, was under your toilet for years.) Provide plenty of ventilation and use a plastic putty knife, followed by a rag soaked in mineral spirits, to clean any remaining wax from around the toilet anchor flange and the drain on the bottom of the toilet (if you’re reinstalling it). Remove the old mounting bolts and check the toilet anchor flange for damage.
After you remove the old wax ring, immediately plug the drain with a ball of rags or an old towel large enough that it doesn’t fall into the pipe. The untrapped drain will allow noxious sewer gas to enter your home. Step 2
Remove the old bolts from the toilet anchor flange and check the flange for cracks or missing pieces. Install any repair parts or spacers as needed before inserting the new toilet mounting bolts.
CautionBe sure to install a flange repair kit if you notice that the toilet leaks or wobbles. Again, add a spacer to fill a gap between floor level.
Step 3
While again wearing a pair of disposable gloves, press the new wax ring into place around the raised ring at the bottom of the toilet drain on the underside. Seat it firmly enough to hold it in place, but don’t press it so hard that it gets deformed. Step 4
Lift the toilet with the bowl drain directly over the floor drain and lower it in place with the mounting screws coming up through the holes in the base. Press gently and rock it slightly to help the wax ring form a tight seal. Step 5
With the toilet base firmly against the floor, attach the washers and nuts holding the toilet in place. Tighten them enough to keep the toilet from rocking — even just a bit. Then add the decorative caps.
Stop tightening the nuts holding the toilet to the floor as soon as they’re snugly in place and keep the toilet from tipping. Too much torque can crack the porcelain or damage the drain flange. (You really don’t want to lift that thing again to make another repair, right?)
Step 6
Apply fresh thread tape to the tank inlet threads and attach the water-supply line to complete the project. As a precaution, check the base of the toilet for leaks during the next day or so to be sure the wax ring formed a waterproof seal around the drain.
For cheap insurance against leaks, replace the water line linking your toilet to the water line coming through the wall or floor. Carefully select the correct length and use a high quality braided line for added protection from future leaks or line breaks. Add a supply line shut off valve if none exists behind the toilet.
If you find yourself in over your head, please give FloodCo LLC a call. FloodCo can recommend one of the friendly, affordable and qualified plumbers we depend on. They will gladly remove any nasty water damage or mold that may turn up. FloodCo's phone is 406 892-1717.
Information and photos for this project was provided by Lowes. They will probably appreciate your patronage and may offer additional helpful suggestions in the store. Pick up everything you might need -you can always return unused items later.
Posted by Lloy January 25, 2016
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